I think that I can confidently announce that the rainy season is over in Luang Prabang. Which is in close accordance with the Buddhist calendar,given that tomorrow is the end of Buddhist Lent. That formally marks the end of the rainy season, and traditionally monks are then free to travel and preach, having been confined to the temple during the growing season so as not to damage the new crops by walking over them. So tomorrow is also Loy Krathong, or Bun Awk Phansa. Some of you might recall that last year when I tried to write that it was censored by Google as containing offensive language; after some research Bun appeared to be the cause of the problem for Nanny Google;let's see if it is allowed this year!
Many homes, businesses and temples have already built their highly decorated and illuminated boats.
Although the rains have stopped it is still very hot in the day. The mornings and evenings are noticeably cooler, but in my view well short of the term 'cold' being used by some locals. Even as it is getting light at about 5.45am, shorts and tee shirt are still suitable clothing whilst sitting out over my early morning coffee. The river level is falling very swiftly, and those with access to its banks are re-planting daily on the very fertile soil. Peanuts are a favoured crop on the river banks.
The change in the weather, although welcome, seems to have increased the number of insects, if the number of bites I wake up to is any measure. This seems rather illogical and maybe I am gaining a false impression; or maybe my blood has become more desirable in some way. It is possible to think that within a week or so it I ought to be able to sleep without the ceiling fan on; but might this encourage the midges, or whatever it is that is causing me so much irritation?
My sun dial, now in a fairly prominent position still goes unnoticed by most, but is a source of wonder and fascination to those who have spotted it and have asked about it. But, of course, time is not such an obsession here as in more developed countries. Possibly a weather cock is the next accoutrement I should acquire.
The start of the dry season seems to bring the start of the wedding and party season. On Sunday we had a wedding on the school field. By Lao standards it was, I suppose an average kind of affair; I counted about 500 places laid out for the meal. In terms of noise and general unpleasantness it was too, about average, though why the 'music' starts 2 hours before the guests arrive I do not know. Still it did enable me to turn up my own music to maximum volume without feeling guilty about disturbing the neighbours. By 11pm I had the headphones on in bed and pretty much managed to drown out the sounds of the party and its idiotic DJ. At 12 I woke up to discover that I had fallen asleep listening to Steeleye Span at maximum volume and that the party was over. And by 6am there was no trace of the event having been staged, apart from a few people picking up the last of the litter.....well, not quite the last; here litter is always with us.
The school itself seems to have returned to normal, after 3 days last week were given over to drilling and marching and one day off for Teacher's Day. I am assured that the drilling had no military or revolutionary purpose but was training for the National Games to be held here in December. I suppose they are taking part in the opening ceremony or something, unless Massed Drilling is one of the events...a circumstance which one could not wholly rule out. Given that 772 gold medals are going to be awarded there must be some highly unusual sporting competitions planned. The major sponsors are, of course, Beer Lao, whose product is obviously highly conducive to sporting excellence.
On another sporting topic, unless I have got my days muddled up again, I think I may going to more boat races today. My usual chauffeur cannot get tomorrow off work when it is the mens' races, so we might go and watch the ladies' event today or I may accept another offer for tomorrow. I doubt that the ladies will draw such a large and raucous crowd as for the mens' races, but I do seem to recall that Ladies' Cricket matches had to be banned by the magistrates in 19th Century England because they posed a threat to law and order, so I live in hopes.
Khamphone, as I reported last week has been in the wars. This week bureaucracy has struck! He is a tour guide for which you need a permit. Guiding tourists without a current permit rates as a rather more serious offence than rape, and just a little less than high treason, and KP's permit has expired. He applied for a renewal and was eventually told it was ready for collection. He had to go all the way to the Capital to collect it, to be be told that in fact it was 'nearly ready' and he should come back in week or so. He cannot work without it. I am sure that had he offered a financial inducement it would have been made ready for him; it is a major problem here when good, honest people are put in situations where offering bribes may be the most sensible way to get a public official to do the job he is already being paid to do.
I just discovered that the BlogspotPalin-land seemed improbable. But on thinking about it, the map was merely showing the whole of the US.
However, I take the opportunity to greet my readers in The Netherlands and Cambodia, of whom I was previously unaware,and to whom I dedicate the above photo. Poor Isa...no room for her it seems. She is a bit frustrated right now I think. She seems eager for a partner, but much as she wiggles her pert bottom at the young turkeys, they totally reject her advances.
I hope to be here again next week
Alan
Monday, 10 October 2011
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I think if you add a weather cock, then you'll be well on your way to having your house re-classified as a temple. And therefore, yourself as a god. Are you sure you want to go in that direction? Is it that important to know which way the wind is blowing?
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